expedition

Stages & Expeditions, Club Aventure & Mandala Trekking joint expedition

Advanced Base Camp, Friday May 25th, 01 Five summiteers for "2001, Everest Odyssey" ! After weeks of patience for proper weather conditions , the summit of Everest has been reached on May 22 & 23, 01 by the joint expedition Stages & Expeditions/Club Aventure, organized by Mandala Trekking. Bernard Muller, leader of the expedition, with Guy Chardini and Anna Collet, reached the summit in perfect weather conditions the day before yesterday, with 4 altitude sherpas. Yesterday, Jean Marc Porte and Yves Anciaux started from Camp III at 8200 m where they had spent the night and they reached the summit with 3 other sherpas. Yves and Jean Marc spent a second rather 'comfortable' night (sausage & mash potatoes by -30°c !) at 8200 m, before going down. Going down went smoothly for both teams. It is actually the most perilous exercise of these expeditions especially with the accumulated fatigue and stress. It 's too early to voice our feelings and sensations from the summit. This environment of rare oxygen, where human beings seldom survive is of titanesque beauty, strength and space, an experience that rewards months of suffering, sacrifices, risks and hopes. With great weather conditions, we all managed to spend some times on the top. From the summit, the giant "neighbors" Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu look like cathedrals under the sky. All summiteers were surprised by the difficulty of the eastern submittal ridge, quite exposed. Delicate steps, especially just below the summit, perilous insurance on the way down, scary rappelling on 6 mm used ropes. At the time of sending this mail, Russian and US teams are still struggling on their way down since the weather is deteriorating quickly. We've been lucky due without any doubts to the quality of our team - Westerners and Sherpas - very motivated but also very careful about the climbing conditions, very respectful of the mountain. Saying that Bernard Muller is happy is not an understatement. Despite the fatigue, the altitude and the difficult conditions of this spring, this expedition 2001 Everest Odyssey ends up as a group success on the Roof of the World. 9:00 PM. All members are exhausted but happy: no mishaps, no incidents. some sort of relief after weeks of expectations and those final days on edge. After the huge physical effort to summit and back down, after 5 days spent above 7000 m, we are slowly getting a real sense, beyond words, of the privilege we have had to actually step on the physical summit of the world. 8500 m in the stomach. In the heart….

Jean Marc Porte,

rench journalist, transmitted from advanced Base Camp

GURLA MANDATA 7760m FIRST BELGIAN GROUP

expedition

Complete success for the forwarding of the section of the Brabant in Gurla Mandata which returns with a beautiful first Belgian group. The rise of the great top EAST culminating with 7760m of altitude. From the Nepalese border, 800km of track at an average altitude of 4500 m led to the fine bottom of the plate Tibetan, at the edge of the lake Manasarovar in which reflects the 3000m walls of Gurla. The feeling of insulation is very strong, not possible help in this corner of planet and the mountain is gigantic for the small team made up of four climbing of the Belgian Alpine Club and a Nepalese team made up of two sherpas, a cook, a cook assistance. One week is necessary to convey 640kg of material and to install a base Camp with 5600m, a camp I with 6300m and a camp II with 6900m. 500m of fixed cords is placed to make safe the progression through the seracs and the cracks. Because of the conditions weather (winds very violent), only one attempt is possible towards the top. June 17 with 6h of the morning, after 2 nights spent to camp II, they are three to arrive at 17h at the top! A few minutes only to taste the victory because it is late and the descent is made delicate by a "white out" which covers all the summit part. Camp II is found only towards midnight and half what imposes a third night on close to 7000m. The following day all the camps are déséquipés and all are found with the base camp to celebrate the victory and to accommodate the "yackmen" which assemble valley to convey the material with the foot of the lake.

CAB :
Guy Carbonnelle, Edouard Deramee, Lambert Martin, Yves Raymaekers
MANDALA TREKKING : Passang Sherpa, Palde Tamang, Chandra Magar, Dal Magar

Organisation :
CAB brabant & Mandala Trekking ( Bhim Tamang)
www.trekmag.com

annapurna

EVEREST BASE CAMP AND GOKYO LAKE ASCENTION OF ISLAND PEAK

Altitude6,189m
Trek Info18 days Kathmandu/Kathmandu

The name Island Peak was given to the mountain in 1952 by Eric Shipton's party who were on their way to explore the Barun Gorge. Seen from above Dingboche the mountain does indeed resemble an island in a sea of ice. In 1983 it was renamed Imja Tse, although for most people the descriptive name of Island Peak seems to have been retained. The mountain was first dimbed in 1953 by a very prestigious team in preparation for the ascent of Everest. They were Charles Evans, Alf Gregory, Charles Wylie and Tenzing Norgay, with seven Sherpas who were trying out the new fangled oxygen sets; as practice, of course, for loftier things. Fortunately this didn't set a precedent and most people seem able to climb it without bottled air, although a Sherpa Seen from the moraines between Pheriche and Dingboche the mountain doesn't look too impressive, dwarfed as it is by one of the largest mountain faces in the world; the South Face of Lhotse. However, on close inspection it reveals itself to be an interesting and attractive summit with a highly glaciated West Face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself is really an extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated from it by a small col. Above this gap, rising to the south, is a classically beautiful ridge leading to the summit of lmja Tse. The continuation of this ridge, descending south-west, provides part of the normal route of ascent and leads in turn to the South Summit, seen capping the rocky west facet of the mountain when viewed from near Chhukhung. As well as providing an enjoyable climb the peak also provides some of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. If the peak can be likened to an island in a glacial sea, then the mainland forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise in the north to the rugged summits of Nuptse (7.879m) Lhotse (8.501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8.410m), as yet still unclimbed and Lhotse Shar (8.383m). To the east, rising above the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar Glacier, is Cho Polu (6.734m). beyond which can be seen the red granite mass of Makalu (8,475m). To the south of the Imja Glacier the icy flutings of Baruntse (7.720m) and the Amphu peaks lead the eye to the lofty pinnacle of Ama Dablam (6.856m) which is like a giant sea-stack guarding the entrance to the glacial bay in which Island Peak stands

DayDestination Programme
1Flight : Kathmandu / Lukla. (3hrs).Night under tent.
2Phakding /Namche Bazar (5hrs-3446m)
3Namche: Acclimation of altitude.
4Namche Bazar / Dole (6hrs-4084m)
5Dole / Machermo (6hrs-4410 m)
6Machermo / Gokyo lake . (5hrs-4900m)
7Gokyo/Tagnak (5hrs-4900m)
8Tagnak/Dzongla (5hrs- 4900m)
9Dzongla /Lobuche (5hrs-4830m)
10Lobuche/Kalapathar/Lobuche.
11Lobuche/Chukung (7hrs-4650m)
12Climb to base camp of Island Peak. (3hrs-5100m)
13 et 14Ascension of Island Peak (6189m).Return to Chukung.
15Chukung/Thyanboche. (6hrs-3870m).
16Tyanboche/Monjo. (7hrs- 3000m)
17Monjo/Lukla (6hrs-2700m)
18Lukla/Kathmandu by air. Transfer to hotel.
annapurna

Mera Peak Climbing

Altitude6,400m
Trek Info17 days Kathmandu/Kathmandu
DayDestination Programme
1Flight Kathmandu/Lukla then trek and camping at Phakding.
2Phakding/Namche bazar( 5 hrs) acclimation.
3Namchébazar/Khumjung/Namchébazar.
4Namchébazar / back to Lukla.
5Lukla/Chetung (4 hrs - 3000 m)
6Chétung/Thulo Odar (6 hrs - 4300 m)
7Gondisang/Thangnak (5 hrs - 4100 m)
8Thangnak/Mera B/C (4 hrs - 4500 m)
9-11Expédition Mera Peak
12-16Return to Lukla by same road.
17Lukla/Kathmandu(by air).Transfer to hotel
annapurna

Rolwaling and Ascent of Pachermo Peak

Altitude6,200m
Trek Info18 days Kathmandu/Kathmandu
DayDestination Programme
1Bus from Kathmandu to Dolakha (6 hrs- 1650m)
2Dolakha - Shingkati (6 hrs - 1000m)
3Shingkati/ Jagat (5:30 hrs - 1800 m)
4Jagat/ Simigaon (5 hrs-2100m)
5Simigaon/Dungung (7 hrs-3000m)
6Dungung/ Beding (5.30 hrs-3700m)
7Beding/ Na (2 hrs-4200m)
8Na (4200m)
9Na/Tsho Rolpa (6 hrs-4400m )
10Tsho Rolpa/Thakarding (6:30 hrs-4800m)
11Thakarding /Tashi Phuka (6:30 hrs- 5300m)
12Tashi Phuka /Summit to Pachermo Peak(6273m)/ Tashi Phuka
13Tashi Phuka /Thengpo (5:30 hrs-5000m)
14Thengpo/Thame (5 hrs-3800m)
15Thame/Namche (4 hrs-3450m)
16Namche/Phakding (4 hrs-2640m)
17Phakding/Lukla (3 hrs-2750m )
18Lukla /Ktm by air (1350m )
annapurna

Paldor Peak Climbing

Altitude5,928m
Trek Info16 days Kathmandu/Kathmandu
DayDestination Programme
1Kathmandu/Trisuli (3 hrs - 1170 m)
2Harkapur/Mayghnag (6hrs- 2115 m)
3Mayghnag/Verjai goun (6hrs- 1680 m)
4Verjai gaon/Jharlang (6hrs - 1600 m)
5Jharlang/Sertung (5 hrs - 2300 m)
6Sertung/Chauri Khraka (6 hrs - 3000 m)
7Chauri Khraka/Col de Pangsang (3800 m)/Somdang(6 hrs-3100 m)
8Somdang - Paldor Base Camp (7 hrs- 4400 m)
9Rest at Paldor Base Camp
10Paldor Base Camp-High Camp (Camp intermidiate)(4hr 5000m)
11High Camp - Paldor Peak (5928 m) - Paldor Base Camp(7 h)
12Day break
13Paldor Base Camp – Somdang (5 hrs)
14Somdang – Gatlang (5 hrs - 3000 m)
15Gatlang – Syabrubesi (3 hrs - 1500 m)
16Syabrubesi - Kathmandu by road (8 hrs)
annapurna

Pisang Peak Climbing

Altitude6,091m
Trek Info16 days Kathmandu/Kathmandu
DayDestination Programme
1Bus Kathmandu/Bensishar & 2hrs upto Khudi. (6h - 650m)
2Jagat/Dharapani (6h - 2000m)
3Dharapani/Chame(5h - 2700 m)
4Chame/Pisang (5h - 3100m)
5Jharlang/Sertung (5 hrs - 2300 m)
6,7,8Les Période d'acsension de Pisang
9Pisang/Manang (5h - 3650m)
10Manang / Khangsar village (4h - 3800m)
11Khangsar/:Tilicho phedi (5h - 4400m)
12Montee lac Tilicho(5h - 4900m)
13Lac tilicho /col du mesokento (5h - 5500m)
14Mesokento/Jomsom (6h - 2800m)
15Jomsom/Pokhara by flight.
16Bus Pokhara/Kathmandu (6h)